Material Innovations

In the Russian, Belarus is pronounced “Belorussia,”  and means “white Russian.”  Though unclear how the term originated, it is speculated that white refers to the purity of Belarussian genes.  For a number of historical reasons, the gene pool of Belarus is relatively free of the northern Asian genes introduced into the region by the Mongolian invasions between the 4th and 6th centuries.  Regardless of the actual origin of the word, the Belarussian people take this term to heart and have incorporated it into their cultural heritage.  Traditional costumes are mostly white with colored accents and feature a recurring embroidered diamond pattern.

Traditional Belarussian costume

This diamond motif is practically ubiquitous (see insets of other photographs) and can be likened to a brand element of their cultural identity.  This motif is so significant to the culture, that it is emblazened on the flag.  Isn’t this what cultural heritage is, in a way: a culture’s brand code.  A culture prides, as well as differentiates, itself through it uniqueness which can be expressed in countless ways.  Like nearly all distinct groups, the Belarussian people pride themselves in several key ways which form the basis of their cultural identity and non-tangible heritage.

Flag of The Republic of Belarus (note the diamond motif on the left)

A significant source of pride for Belarussians is their connection to the land.  Primarily an agrarian society, most people have vegetable gardens that account for a major portion of the food they eat.  Also, as Belarus is a heavily forested region (symbolized by the green band on the flag), it is common for people to go into the woods for picnics, berry picking, hunting, mushroom harvesting, and wood gathering.  In fact, the privacy of the woods accommodates secret distilleries where villagers produce their own vodka!  People appreciate nature so much that often cemeteries are either in the woods or are heavily planted with trees.

Cemetery in the woods

Another source of cultural pride for Belarussians is their hospitality.  A welcome guest is treated like royalty, and often receives treatment beyond what the head of a household enjoys.  This is contrasted with the treatment of unacquainted persons.  Rarely do strangers engage or even make eye contact in public and to act in a friendly manner to a stranger is often regarded as an affront.

The rural way of life so appreciated by most Belarussians is quite threatened, though.  Modernization and globalization are forcing the younger generations to leave the village life for the cities and their cosmopolitan values.  The government has addressed the problem by instituting a lottery wherein young couples can apply for and receive a free newly constructed home with the condition that they stay in the village, work the land, and help their aging neighbors.

Traditional rural home (winter), Mutejar, Belarus (notice the diamond shapes in the inset detail of the entry)

The village life lends itself well to the practice of hand crafts, which are also threatened by mass produced consumer culture.  Besides the craft practice of subsistence gardening, people cure their own meats and fish, distill their own spirits, braid straw, knit and crochet.

Hand crochet'd dress (notice the diamond motif)

Hand woven straw decoration

Related to this loss of tradition is another major cultural marker, that is the Belarussian language.  Distinct from other Slavic languages, Belarussian is spoken by less than 50% of the population, a figure which is decreasing annually.  As an example of non-tangible heritage, language would rank pretty highly.  But with the threat of this language disappearing in less than 50 years, this centuries-old culture will continue to dissolve into the homogeneity that is fast engulfing Europe as a whole.

I can’t help but draw a parallel between the spirit of Belarus and the spirit of the American westward movement of the early 19th century.  Agricultural, in harmony with the land, pride in self-sufficiency are all common to both antique America and Belaurs.  The nostalgia and romanticism of people interconnected with the landscape is woven into the fabric of both cultures.  Interestingly, both have close associations with bison, as well.  Where America has a special place for the roaming beast, Belarus honors the bison as its national animal.  Not simply a symbolic vestige of a bygone era, Belarussians identify with the characteristics of the large mammal, in particular, its calm and peaceful demeanor contrasted with its great strength.

Belaurs identifies with the spirit of the Bison

As stated above, a design such as the woven diamond motif on the Belarussian flag can be a part of the brand code of a culture’s heritage.  Interestingly, the Native Americans of the plains, also people of the Bison, have a similar motif which also adorned their handcrafts.  Coincidence?

Native American weaving motif similar to diamond pattern on Belarussian flag

A truly unique element of Belarus’ genius loci is its political niche.  Following the collapse of the Soviet Union, all other former Soviet states have made strident efforts to distance themselves from this by-gone era.  Communist icons in the form of statuary of Stalin, red stars and other tangible heritage markers have been cleansed from other former Soviet states.  In contrast, Belarus’ President Alexander Lukashenko has done nothing to remove these physical reminders of a failed political establishment.  So extreme is Lukashenko’s grip on the past that Belarus is considered by many to be the “last dictatorship in Europe.”

It is perplexing to tour a “democratic republic” that revels in its contradictory communist past.  Everywhere one looks are large red stars, busts, reliefs and statues of the deceased Motherland’s heroes and ideals.  Lukashenko is seen as an oligarchy of one – and seems quite comfortable with that assessment.  Holding his small country of 10M citizens with an iron grip, he changes laws at will to suit his insatiable power-lust and to extend his reign indefinitely.  The irony is that while Lukashenko solely perpetuates the communist era, he distances himself from Russia and vies for inclusion in the European Union Eastern Partnership.  However, due to a long list of “development opportunities” such as allegations of fixed elections, human rights violations, a weak economy, and a general penchant for dictatorial power, Belarus is a long way from ever gaining admission into the EU club.

Statue of Vladimir Lenin outside the Belarus Parliament building in the capital city of Minsk

On the subject of Belarus’ political alignments, the people are divided along generational lines.  Younger generations see the West as their future while the older generation mourns the old ways.  A perfect example of this is found in the August 2009 story of a young man who was killed climbing on a large statue of Lenin in the city of Grodno.  As it happens, this young adult was swinging from the outstretched arm of the huge bronze sculpture when it toppled from its plinth, breaking into several large pieces and consequently crushing him.  During the former Soviet era, such a disrespectful act as this would be unheard of, quite possibly resulting in one’s life being taken away punitively.  But rather than remove the statue and erect something representing the new era (the Republic of Belarus, as opposed to a reminder of the previous regime) the county officials ordered the statue repaired and re-erected.

Conceptually, it may seem challenging to comprehend this contradiction, but touring this oxymoronic state is no less than surreal.  I can say from first hand experience that it is very difficult to reconcile the contemporary cosmopolitan metropolis that is the capital city of Minsk while constantly confronted with the icons of yesteryear’s dead politic.  But it is precisely this idiosyncrasy that makes Belarus unique.  And is it not uniqueness that fuels a culture’s non-tangible heritage?